Ajanta is perhaps the most famous Indian restaurant in the city, for both its long hours and its long history. The restaurant opened in 1957, then in Asagaya, named after the Ajanta Caves in Maharashtra. The third pillar of Ajanta’s fame is the authenticity of its south Indian cuisine, which we had previously experienced at its Colours of India outpost in Roppongi. (There is also another Ajanta in Shiodome.) 

The first floor is half bar and half canteen, with a counter for bento boxes and take-out orders (delivery is also available). The bar serves beers (¥550 and up) from India and elsewhere and other alcoholic and soft drinks, including mango lassi (¥700). Up the narrow staircase, things are marginally more sophisticated in the main restaurant area, but Ajanta’s unpretentiousness is its charm.

Nervous about the prospect of curry for breakfast, our first visit to Ajanta was in the evening. With the assistance of a companion who knew about these things, we ordered dosa (sour rice crepe, ¥1,575) with sambar (mild vegetable curry). Vadai (¥1,050), or savory donuts, came in useful for mopping up every last drop of the curries that, along with naan (¥525) and saffron rice (¥840), soon filled every inch of our table. They included sweet and creamy korma with tender lamb chops (¥1,890), spinach and cheese palak paneer (¥1,680) and shrimp masala (¥2,310), between them exuding tumeric, cumin, coriander, coconut and countless other exotic flavors.

Our companion, determined to teach us the real meaning of “hot,” ordered a mutton vindaloo (¥1,680). Much to her chagrin, it was quite palatable—enjoyable, even—so we requested another. The second, however, left us gasping for something—anything—to quench our burning mouths. As we hastily attempted to douse the flames with water, beer or bread (everyone seemed to have a different remedy), she sheepishly admitted to ordering it “extra extra hot” to accomplish her mission.