The first thing you’ll notice when you enter Muy in Marunouchi is the noise. It’s the sound of happiness, of content customers laughing, schmoozing and relaxing. It’s more reminiscent of a Parisian bistro or, indeed, a bar off La Rambla, albeit on a larger scale than most of Barcelona’s diminutive establishments. 

The second thing you’ll notice is the chunky, wood-topped bar, which stretches down the middle of the elongated space. It’s the backbone of activity, with customers and chefs facing off over the tapas ingredients that litter its surface. Behind the chefs, picture windows overlook the comings and goings of Tokyo station, best observed at night. The private rooms at one end of the restaurant make the most of the view, but for couples the bar is the place to be.

The next thing you can’t help but notice at the bar is how tall the stools are. Perched this high, it’s impossible not to look down your nose at the waiters. If that makes you uncomfortable, order from the chefs instead.

What to order? The menu is a veritable countdown of Spanish culinary hits, from paella to Iberico via innumerable tapas delights. The paellas include spicy seafood, squid ink and the classic Valencia variety, and there is an interesting Calatan version, fideua, made with pasta instead of rice (from ¥2,400 per person with a minimum of two). The mixed ham plate (¥3,180) was again top-quality, and among the tapas we enjoyed mussels in white wine sauce (¥1,100), garlic mushrooms (¥950) and scrambled egg with shrimp and asparagus (¥950). The drink list is also extensive, but in this atmosphere wine is called for: bottles start at ¥3,700 and the best house wine by the glass is ¥600.