Bentornato is a casual spot. The long counter seats a dozen comfortably, plus a small table near the front door seats four. Downstairs is another room for groups from 5-20. The counter was designed by Kawaguchi to resemble a sushi bar, with the intention of fostering communication between the chefs and customers. But it turned out to be too high: the chefs are mostly hidden. That’s okay, though, as the tall counter provides a measure of intimacy.

Kawaguchi and his chefs care a great deal about their food. They bake their focaccia and bread rolls, smoke their own sausage and other meat delicacies and make their own fresh pasta and pickles. The wine list is short, but well-selected with a dozen reds and whites—all Italian, of course. A carafe of decent house Chianti goes for ¥2,415.

The menu starts off with stuzzichini, little bites, such as olives or housemade pickles. You then progress to the antipasti. At Bentornato, the antipasto misto (¥1,260) is a relaxed progression of five small dishes served one by one.

First up, on this visit, were tender bite-sized bits of octopus paired with a tart chunky potato salad. This was followed by prosciutto with housemade pickles of myoga, lotus root and green peppers. Next was a singular Tuscan treat, smoked cockscomb, the gelatinous topknot of the rooster. Combined with Italian white beans and slices of smoked chicken breast, this in-house smoked delicacy was excellent. Fourth was a mix of tender vegetables—broccoli, asparagus, turnip—served with a savory bagna cauda. Finishing up the antipasti selection was wakasagi (smelt) frittata, half a dozen small white fish lightly dusted with flour, fried and garnished with a squeeze of fresh lemon.

The daily specials—pasta, risotto, meat or fish—are listed on a chalkboard. The main dishes are all priced at ¥1,890. This latest visit featured sangen buta, a “black pig” pork from Gunma slowly roasted and served in a red wine-based vinacotta sauce. Very good. The fresh pasta with shirauo (whitebait) and rape blossoms tasted of spring.

Kawaguchi knows his wines, and he recommended the Guicciardini Strozzi Sodole 2001 (¥5,565), a sturdy red with intense fruit and definitely worth seeking out. For dessert, don’t miss the banana semifreddo laced with caramel and chocolate sauce.