After a long trip on several packed commuter trains, the French flag waving outside Ogikubo’s Brin du Muguet was a more than welcome sight. Parched and famished, we hardly noticed the scaffolding that encased the building as we waltzed inside and took our seats among the dozen or so tables lined up alongside the bar/open kitchen. It didn’t take long until we were toasting our arrival with a glass of champagne (¥1,000) and the complimentary serving of olives and bread.

Brin du Muguet’s menu, meanwhile, boasted everything we’d expect of a charming French brasserie. We were offered three courses with our choice of appetizers and mains, but considering our grumbling stomachs opted for the ¥6,500 omakase course and left the decisions up to Chef Pierre. Our friendly, English-speaking waiter then helped us with the wine list, suggesting two half bottles to round out the meal.

Dinner kicked off with a small salad topped with what the chef described as “flying fish in the sea,” or what we think may have been manta ray. Nevertheless, the tender meat and tangy dressing refreshed our palate for the feast to come. Our 2001 Domaine Jean Collet & Fils (¥2,700) Chablis uncorked, we continued with a rich foie gras terrine served with a light chutney and balsamic vinegar sauce. The generous serving took us a while to finish, but paired nicely with the fruity wine and crusty French bread. 

Next up were small slices of fried shrimp with a buttery phyllo-like tart filled with a caramelized onion spread. One of two seafood courses, it was followed by a yellowtail filet dressed with a creamy shrimp sauce and served with sautéed vegetables and a potato-pumpkin mash. Although portions appeared small, the rich flavors and textures of the food had us filling up fast. Luckily, our next course was a palate cleanser of sesame sherbet. 

Then it was time to open the 1998 Chateau Lagrange (half bottle, ¥5,500), described as the best wine in the house and therefore one we couldn’t resist trying. The complex blend stood up well with our “meat” course, duck filet in a red wine-and-cream sauce with sautéed burdock root. With a few sips of our precious wine left, we were even persuaded to try a tasty cheese plate with figs and walnuts (¥1,200).

By this time, many of our fellow diners had headed out into the night, leaving Pierre to enjoy a cigarette break and us to enjoy the company of our affable waiter. After an espresso (¥400), café latte (¥450) and a few bites of warm chocolate cake and chestnut mousse, it was our turn to make the trek home. At least we knew there was no chance of hunger striking us again on the way back.