Fummy's is the creation of Fumihiro Nakamura, who did his apprenticeship in LA in the early '90s, returning home to launch Fummy's Grill in October of '96. The air is casual, breezy even, what those at Fummy's dub "the spirit of a California cuisine restaurant."

The menu has enough options to please most without over-boggling the mind with too many choices. Vegetarian selections are clearly marked. Among our starters we liked the fried calamari with Korean chili pesto and Thai-flavored salad (¥900), the tofu and vegetable yuba roll (steamed or fried) topped with ginger-flavored Chinese black bean sauce (¥900) and a creamy Chinese chicken salad with ginger dressing (¥900). (Minor quibble: Slivered onion toppings appeared too frequently.) 

Entrees (from sea or land) include a delectable seared tuna, just barely cooked, dressed with three types of peppercorns, Korean chili pesto and beurre noisette sauce (¥1700). Done in by volume we didn't get around to any pasta, risotto or meat dishes, which include sauteed beef steak with mashed potatoes and steamed vegetables in pink pepper sauce (¥2500), or grilled chicken with turmeric rice coconut curry (¥1700). A '97 Kenwood Yulupa Cab Sauv (at an exceedingly reasonable ¥3800) was a perfect complement to our meal.