A visiting team of four, we were looking to sample some local fare while visiting Saitama City in our preparations for the World Cup. Luckily, we didn't have to look far. Hananoren, a fine Japanese-style budget eatery, awaited us at Omiya, the city's main rail and entertainment hub. 

After steeling ourselves with a few rounds (a full bar is available and all drinks are currently discounted 30 percent on Sundays and holidays), we kicked off the evening by shocking our taste buds with boiled tuna's head (¥800)—more appetizing than it sounds—garnished with burdock root and mange-tout. Following in quick succession were a subtly smoked tofu with ham and daikon (¥680), salmon and kimchi teppanyaki (¥750)—a Hananoren original recipe—and a mountainous spinach salad (¥800), which proved an excellent example of Hananoren's trademark oozairyouri (large plate) cuisine.

Generally speaking, careful attention was given to not only the presentation of the food, but the color, size and shape of serving vessels. This, however, did not make the only dish that met with a chorus of disapproval any more appealing. The super-dry German potato and cheese bake (¥650) needed more than a sprinkling of the spicy sauce at our disposal to resuscitate it.

As desserts, limited to fruit sherbet, jellies, puddings or gateau, seemed relatively standard, we opted for a little more adventure. The feather-light pastry rolls filled with crab cream and drizzled with tomato sauce (¥580) were a pleasant surprise, while the Camembert pancakes (¥650) proved a bit more of a challenge. The cheese flavor was almost indiscernible and the pancakes seemed more like donuts, but the hot strawberry sauce managed to redeem everything. 

For those who can't be bothered wading through a menu, Hananoren offers several options. The momiji course (¥2,500) offers six dishes, no drinks, or the same six dishes, plus two hours of all-you-can-drink for ¥4,300.