t would have been easy to forget that we were on our way to an Italian restaurant when we snuck into the tiny, Kyoto-like alleyways of Kagurazaka. We finally found Kakurembo Yokocho (“hide and seek alley”), but only with the help of a friendly local obachan who admitted that she herself still gets lost in the neighborhood. The restaurant is located behind a traditional wooden gate that opens to a Japanese-style garden, but the elevator to fifth floor whisks visitors from old Edo to modern Italy, where the fine aroma of zesty herbs and olive oil fills the air.

Though we made reservations for dinner a full week in advance, we still couldn’t manage to snag seats on Kagurazaka Stagione’s beautiful terrace. Waves of envy swept over us as we eyed the lucky diners enjoying the summer breeze while lounging on wide sofas. The tables inside were just as full, and the crowd kept the attentive staff busy. The restaurant’s décor is clean and simple, with white linen tablecloths and comfy-looking counter seats that let diners see the chefs at work.

After passing the classy glass wine cabinet at the entrance, we decided that we’d definitely order a bottle, and on this humid night, we needed something refreshing. “Sparkling” was our answer, so from the vast list we decided on the slightly carbonated, dark cherry-colored Lambrusco Reggiano Secco “Concerto” 2007 (¥4,200). Despite its ruby hue, the texture was neither too light nor too heavy, and went well with all our food orders.

Unusual for a restaurant in Japan, we were served excellent complimentary bread and golden olive oil, which gave us high expectations for the pizza to come.

Photos Courtesy of Kagurazaka Stagione