On an unusually warm April weekday, we passed a large building on Komazawa Dori on our way to Roppongi. Having walked a long way from Ebisu station and needing more than just a breather, we didn't give a second thought to opening the heavy door leading into Kyosuzu. Inside, we were led down a long and dramatically lit hallway, passing seven private rooms on our right before entering the main dining room to our left and being seated at one of the six spaciously arranged tables.
Of the three lunch sets available (¥1,365-¥2,940), we chose the intermediate course (¥1,680) because it featured three variations of tofu, whereas the other two courses focused on fried or rice dishes. Looking forward to a light but satisfying mid-afternoon meal, we sipped our green tea and enjoyed the interior.
The small servings included sashimi-style fresh yuba, sesame tofu, and homemade tofu in a thickened, hot broth. The yuba was full of the fresh flavor of soy milk. The almost latex-like texture, surprisingly never an unpleasant sensation, paired well with the shiso leaf, which was crunchy in comparison. Although Kyosuzu's sesame tofu was tablespoon-sized, the slight accent of sesame in the smooth, semi-hardened paste resulted in an interesting bite. It was the first time either of us had encountered such an odorless and faint presence of the seed, but the gummy, pudding-like texture made up for the small size. The homemade tofu hit the spot on that hot afternoon, and we skipped the grated wasabi in favor of the soy's natural sweetness.
Mizuna leaves served hot but still crisp had a spiciness uncommon in the subtle flavors of Kyoto, the base cuisine at Kyosuzu. Also new to us, cold udon was served with an optional yuzu pepper seasoning. Although overpoweringly hot if encountered alone, the yuzu pepper retained its appetizing scent and enhanced the flavor of the light bonito broth. Surrounded by small jewels of ice, the noodles went down with a refreshing slurp. Meanwhile, our server was gauging pauses well and never once arrived without a fresh pot of tea. After a spoonful of vanilla ice cream and having recharged fully, we left the Kyosuzu oasis and journeyed fourth to our original destination.