This is a bit embarrassing, but I actually bought a shirt before going to La Terrasse. The high life has exacting standards, and if you’re going to judge a bar by its location then this is the kind of place that wouldn’t normally let me through the door. Nothing says ooh-la-la louder than an al fresco “wine café” perched atop the Pierre Gagnaire à Tokyo restaurant in Minami-Aoyama, across the road from Herzog and de Meuron’s iconic Prada building. The aura of exclusivity is punctured by a sign outside stating that “small dogs” are permitted, but then I’d be the first to admit that the average toy poodle is far better groomed than I am.

It turns out that I needn’t have worried. Heading there under inclement skies on a Tuesday evening, my companion and I are surprised to find the place virtually empty.

A lone couple skulks at a table under a parasol near the bar, but there’s nobody occupying La Terrasse’s star attractions: a pair of wicker love nests positioned at the edge of the balcony, overlooking the city. Too voluminous to pass for sofas, you don’t so much recline in these as allow them to envelope you. We flop back and gaze at the uninterrupted view of Tokyo Tower and Roppongi Hills—seriously, who’d have thought that there was a rooftop vista like this in Omotesando.

The menu arrives, looking more minimal than one of Monsieur Gagnaire’s most pared-back gastronomic creations. Wines apparently start from ¥1,200 per glass, but when we ask what whites they have on offer, we’re told that there’s only one available. The waiter declines to say exactly what variety it is, though judging by the faintly anemic tipple that arrives, we can surmise that it isn’t a particularly good one. My companion’s “Azur” (¥1,000), one of three original cocktails offered, is tart and synthetic: far from undrinkable, but a little too redolent of some kind of household cleaning product.

We might have done better to go for a glass of champagne (an eye-watering ¥2,000) or to have come earlier in the day. La Terrasse is open from 2pm, and has the makings of a good coffee spot, even if you have to pay ¥700 for an espresso. The food menu runs the gamut from mixed nuts (¥500) to foie gras terrine (¥2,000) in just eight steps, which is sort of impressive in itself. We end up eating elsewhere.

There’s no sniffing at La Terrasse’s splendid perch, and we’re heartened that they don’t try to bilk you with an exorbitant seating charge on top of the, ahem, rather excessive drink prices. If you can snag one of the love nests, it’s ideal for amorous couples who just want to snuggle and enjoy the sights. Otherwise, this one’s all gloss, precious little substance.
On the plus side, my new shirt’s actually rather nice.