"Where's Al Capone?" we quipped as we took to our red velvet banquette. Surrounded by the divinely deco décor, a la 1930s Chicago, we sank into the plush corner booth of this old-time steakhouse. The swank atmosphere is carefully preserved by the smart dress code - getting a once-over from the maitre d' in the dimly lit lobby, we'd already passed muster with the fashion. With healthy appetites fueled by our wait in the bar, we attacked the menu with gun's ablazing, opting for a spot of surf and turf. Judging by the number of apologies we received for having to actually beckon a waitress, the white liveried staff must deal with some fearsome bosses. After it was made clear that the only thing likely to end up bloody was the beef, this tax-evader and his moll plumped for the generous Lawry cut (JY4500) with buttered peas (JY350) and Atlantic lobster tails (JY5500) - both come with salad and mashed potato. 

Before our entrees arrived, two glasses of reasonably priced Modiva Cabernet arrived - we definitely don't believe in Prohibition - and a spinning bowl salad put in an appearance. Romaine, iceberg and watercress were spun tableside over crushed ice, with shredded beets, diced egg and croutons topped off with Lawry's original vintage dressing. Before we could get to the tangy salad, our side order of baked potato-complete with butter, bacon, chives and sour cream (JY500) - was delivered. A delicious piece of savory Americana, it gives the famed mash and gravy a run for its money. 

Established back in 1938 in Beverly Hills, Lawry's has lost none of its charm over the years - unlike your average showgirl - and the specially designed silver carts still bring the prime ribs tableside. Our order was wheeled up and the cut of beef was so hefty it took two wait staff to prepare. Complemented by a crispy Yorkshire pudding - almost as good as grandmother's - creamy mashed potatoes with gravy and buttered peas, the medium-rare roast was deliciously tender and really did melt in the mouth. Cooked to perfection and allowed to properly rest before the tableside carving, the large joint really does melt in the mouth. The three lobster tails with asparagus, melted butter and a surprisingly spicy chili dip promptly arrived courtesy of a third waitress. The fresh crustaceans were similarly cooked to perfection, their tender flesh presented turned back onto their scarlet tails. 

Although previous experience left us wary of overdoing things, the dessert menu proved as difficult to resist as a low security bank to Bonnie and Clyde. My lush companion decided the apple pie wasn't quite all-American enough, and so we opted to split the delightfully dense classic chocolate cake (JY700) instead, and rounding things off with a good strong coffee (JY500). Next time a wiseguy comes to town or we need to impress a doll, we'll strong-arm them over to Lawry's for a touch of low-key class-after all, the restaurant's been in the business for more than 60 years, which is more than most Godfathers can say.