Everyone knows Harajuku as the ultimate teen hipsters’ hangout. And the overwhelming majority of restaurants catering to its crowds seem to be fast, cheap, kitschy—or all of the above. So the discovery of Nabi behind the Diesel store on Meiji Dori came as a nice surprise.
This swank new eatery specializes in organic Korean cuisine, serving up a variety of fresh vegetables, meats, noodles and more with traditional spices and sauces. We were intrigued by Nabi after catching a glimpse of it on our way home not long ago, but decided to save it for the weekend. When we returned early on a Saturday, it looked as though we were the only ones to have stumbled upon its basement lair. Two other diners sharing a large booth were the only indication that the restaurant was even open.
Nabi’s menu reflects the same sensibilities, with traditional favorites served in a fresh and up-to-date style. We immediately kicked things off with assorted kimchi (¥1,100), which arrived soon afterwards as a selection of mildly spicy daikon, cucumber and turnips. From the drinks menu, which offered a wide range of cocktails, Korean spirits and awamori, and a smaller selection of wine and beers, we indulged our curiosity with OB beer from Korea and Orion from Okinawa (both ¥735).
But knowing a Korean meal wouldn’t be complete without grilled meats, we sampled the kalbi (¥1,575) and stewed pork spare rib (¥2,100). Both arrived pre-cooked and artfully arranged on a bright green banana leaf. We wrapped them in the house-specialty ssam—an assortment of ten organic vegetables plus nori, hot peppers and miso paste (¥945)—which is said to bring happiness.
After years wrapping our yakiniku in plain lettuce with a dollop of miso, we were indeed happy to try the radicchio, endives and other lettuce varieties we didn’t even recognize. But we have to admit that we missed the chance to grill our own meat at the table. As our dining companion said, this was “Korean comfort food gone haute couture.”
Our faith in the old favorites was restored with Nabi’s chijimi with octopus, shrimp and seafood (¥1,365). Moist and filled with chunks of seafood and thinly sliced onion, it was definitely one of the best we’ve had. The bibimbap (¥1,260) was equally hearty, with seven kinds of vegetables and a lightly fried egg atop warm rice. As we worked our way through the menu, the restaurant slowly began to fill with weary shoppers, and a number of mixed Japanese and foreign couples and groups. With young waiters wearing Moet T-shirts and jazzy background music, we still knew we were in a Harajuku restaurant—but one we would happily return to.