Podo specializes in charcoal-grilled pork, including a variety of dishes that are served in mini cast-iron pots. These sumibi offerings range from the fatty coragen (pig’s feet, ¥350) to the egg and bacon (¥450) to ho ho (cheek, ¥400)—and they’re a lot better than they sound. Served on a sizzling skillet and topped with leeks or even cheese, the mini-pan dishes are decently portioned and uniformly excellent.

Elsewhere on the menu, simplicity wins out. A single, lusciously ripe tomato is served with a tennis ball-sized chunk of “Himalayan” salt, which diners can grate themselves (¥500). This “salad” will appeal to anyone who appreciates elemental flavors and top-quality ingredients. The shellfish chijimi (¥1,000), meanwhile, is so gently seasoned that the flavors of the shrimp, squid and tako all shine through; carrots and nira add color and texture. Doughy and large enough for two, this pancake-like dish is also agreeably non-oily.

Other familiar Korean fare includes bibinpap (¥1,200), kimchi platters (¥850) and hotpots, like the excellent kamuja tan chige (¥850). This spicy stew of pork, potato, leek, onion, carrots and egoma 
(a shiso-like leaf) would be the perfect dish to warm the body on a chill midwinter’s day. Summertime diners, meanwhile, will appreciate the coragen yude buta (¥980). Chilled, boiled strips of pork are served with hakusai leaves and condiments like red miso, shrimp shiokara and kimchi. The dish is eaten by wrapping the meat and fillings in the leaves—and then, ideally, washing it all down with a crisp Asahi beer (¥600-¥650).

All of Podo’s food is served up in a smart interior that has cleverly arranged seating areas to mask the relative lack of space. If you’d like a front-row view of the action, belly up to the counter and watch the cooks maneuver around the stoves and charcoal grills. Several four-person booths would be the best choice for couples, and the friendly staff will give you personalized service.