With white walls, white table linens, white plates, and no artwork save one strikingly modern oil painting, nothing distracts the eye in Révérence—the whole dining room is a canvas primed for the artistry focused on the plate.

Chef Hiroshi Hori likes to play with color, texture and nuance, introducing subtle surprises with each dish. Take, for example, an early autumn entrée: a morsel of hamo (pike conger), resplendently snow-white, centered in a shallow bowl of finely seasoned tomato gazpacho as lusciously textured as a smoothie. Underneath that red ambrosia was the raised outline of a flat, coaster-like square, which with the first spoonful proved to be black vinegargeleé. The mellow acidity of that kurozu surprise gave the gazpacho a lively little kick.

Later in autumn, Hori delighted again with a dinnertime appetizer of oyster tartar. Served in a martini glass, bits of fresh Hiroshima oyster were topped, like a soft ice cream, with chilled twists of translucent noodles composed of jellied oyster liquor and 3 percent seawater. That’s exactly the right percentage, he says, to balance the taste of that mollusc with the freshness of the sea.

This was followed by red snapper, skin crisp and flesh succulent, served with a red wine reduction and caramelized Brussels sprouts perched on dabs of potato puree. The meat course was a tender fillet of venison infused with the intoxicating perfume of smoked straw. Unique, delicious and unforgettable.

Révérence is about to celebrate its first birthday, and the restaurant is not yet crowded—which is good, because it’s only a two-man operation. While Hori creates in the kitchen, Kazunari Kameyama fills with aplomb the roles of receptionist, waiter, sommelier and cashier. Both men are still in their early 30s, but have earned their chops: Hori worked for six years in France, and Kameyama learned his trade in Paris at restaurant Pierre Gagnaire.

These two young men are friendly, relaxed and unpretentious. “Révérence” is the term for the final curtsy or bow that a ballet dancer does to the teacher and the audience. This restaurant is their bow of thanks and respect to France, to food, and to each customer.

The seven-course lunch, including dessert, coffee or tea, and those great little sweets at the end,mignardises, starts from ¥3,800. The six-course dinner menu starts at ¥8,600. But, of course, items can also be ordered à la carte. A fine selection of wines by the glass are available starting from ¥1,000.

Révérence would be ideal for a holiday season lunch or dinner. It would be wise to reserve early.