The French expression sans le sou is roughly translated as “penniless,” and that is how one often feels after a trip to one of the countless French eateries dotting Tokyo’s culinary map. However there are some hidden gems just off the beaten path. Enter Sans Le Sou Bistrot, located on a quiet side street just outside of Nishi-Ogikubo station’s south exit.

Saying that a trip to Sans Le Sou is off the beaten path is actually a bit misleading. A chalkboard and an open doorway lead diners past an unassuming storefront, up a warmly lit stairway, and into the arms of Chef Kaneko and Ms. Mano, the hostess. These two have greeted the likes of Vogue Nippon and Senmon Ryoori (Japan’s leading culinary publication), and they’ve built a following in the neighborhood, which is known as a gourmet hotspot. Reservations are required for the 30-seat restaurant, so we called a day ahead to book counter seats in front of the open kitchen.

We were promptly seated and ordered two draft beers (¥630) while consulting the menu, which is straightforward and has three sections: appetizers, main courses and desserts. Ordering is equally uncomplicated—the only option is a three-course prix fixe dinner (¥4,000-¥6,000). Diners choose from offerings in each category, with the price determined by the appetizer selection, barring a few supplemental options later in the menu. The selections are numerous; on this particular evening there were over 25 dishes.

We chose a bottle of 2001 Olivier Leffaive Givrey Chablis (¥4,000), and watched as the chefs prepared our meal. Before our appetizers, we were presented with a shirako cappuccino as an amuse bôuche. The buttery smooth custard, punctuated by the firmer texture of the shirako, was balanced by a topping of briny foam. Appetizers appeared just as our satisfied smiles faded. We enjoyed a crispy pâte à bric stuffed with tender braised pork (as part of the ¥4,410 course), accompanied by a salad of shaved shallots and parsley leaves. Next came three selections of charcuterie (¥5,040)—pâte à campagne, foie gras torchon and prosciutto—with spicy homemade pickles and Dijon mustard. Our meal was accompanied by a basket with four varieties of freshly baked bread, which we willingly accepted the offer to replenish.

Thankfully, the main courses were smaller. Kinmedai, a variety of snapper, was served atop a silky potato puree with rapini and cabbage (¥200 extra). The skin was golden and crisp, the flesh moist. Our second serving of bread was not wasted, as we cleaned the plate of every last drop of the rich shellfish sauce. Braised veal breast was succulent and tender, and contrasted well with the pairing of sautéed vegetables, which retained a refreshing crunch.

Our stomachs were near exhaustion, but dessert was worth the extra effort. We decided on a caramel flan garnished with strawberries, pineapple and vanilla ice cream. Not able to make any further decisions, we tried to take the easy route by opting for the substitute cheese plate in lieu of a second dessert. We were tricked by the simplicity of the offering, and were asked to select three cheeses from a platter of 12. So many choices, but only one that’s easy: Make a reservation.