Jazz filled the air on this quiet Monday night after the New Year holidays, and only a few tables were taken by couples and tourists. We settled in at a table and embarked on our own deep-sea quest with an ocean-green North Polar (¥900), an intoxicating cocktail of mint liqueur, cacao, soda and cream.
For appetizers, our enthusiastic waiter recommended the popular New Caledonian angel prawn carpaccio (¥1,250) and Tasmanian "Cat's Eye" oysters (¥1,400 for four pieces). The freshness and natural sweetness of the fine materials spoke for themselves. Lobster pâté served with garlic toast (¥1,000) was also a delight. The silky p‰té made of lobster roe and liver accented the thick pieces of buttery toast, while the fresh greens balanced out the richness.
For the entrée, we chose a mille-feuille of fresh Hokkaido sea urchin and grilled scallops (¥1,650). The nori on top of the layers of grilled scallops and sea urchins on a puff pastry with cream sauce and leeks added a Japonesque taste to this French-style savory.
The lobsters scurrying away in fear as we feasted on their tank-mates could run but they could not hide: Kazan's signature dish is whole, fresh seared and stir-fried lobster (¥4,300~), a feast that serves two to three people, although a half order (¥2,500~) for one is also available. Among the three choices of seasoning, the ginger sauce and black bean paste take your palate to a sea-dragon palace of China, while the spice seasoning tempts your taste buds with more than ten kinds of mixed spices.
After a tsunami of a meal, our wish for a mild and low-calorie treat was granted in the soy milk bavarois (¥650), a sweetened tofu served with white sesame sauce. Although the dessert menu here is not long, everything appeared light and healthy. For fruit-lovers, ripened tomato compote (¥650) or blanc-manger fruit cocktail (¥650) also sounded promising.
For value-hunters, courses (lunch ¥1,800~, dinner ¥5,000~) are available upon reservation. Women can even indulge in an impressive Lady's Special Course (¥4,200) on Monday nights. The only warning to those wishing to explore this fresh from-the-sea fare: be sure to come prepared with a full wallet.