At Stockholm we learned the traditional way to eat at a Swedish smorgasbord. The first round is always pickled herring, which Stockholm presents in a variety of sauces - light mustard, red onion, tomato, brandy, herb - and traditional smoked herring is also offered. The herring in mustard and brandy sauces is absolutely delicious. 

The second round moves on to other fish dishes, smoked and marinated salmon being especially popular. The third round should include cold meats such as sausages, beef, turkey, pork and patés. These are supplemented by fine selection of cheeses and salads. The fourth round traditionally features hot foods such as pork and sausages, and of course the famous Swedish meatballs. The fifth round, if you haven't yet called for a medic, is dessert, and Stockholm offers fresh slices of cantaloupe and pineapple, cheesecake, pastries, and the highly tempting appel nots kaka (hot apple cake). 

The tasty spread might strain your stomach's capacity, but it won't hurt your wallet: the lunchtime smorgasbord is ¥3000. If you are not in the mood to overeat, there is a lunch set for ¥1200 Monday to Friday. The dinner smorgasbord is ¥5500 Monday to Friday and on Saturdays, Sundays, and holidays the price goes down to ¥3980. 

Order yourself a glass of Aquavit (¥500), the essential accompaniment to any true Swedish smorgasbord. This herb-flavored spirit is served in an interesting manner - a thick block of ice encapsulates the bottle, hence we deduced that the Swedes like this drink served cold. Coffee is included with the lunch time smorgasbord and Stockholm also has a large selection of wines.