Tamasaka serves its kaiseki ryori lunch (¥4,500) in seven or so “courses” (for lack of a better word), but plan on experiencing about 30 different seasonal foods. We were treated to smoky dashi broths and a rice vinegared-fish called amago that is carefully positioned to appear to be swimming. A wasabi and sake-infused condiment called kasuzuke accompanied a perfect fillet of salt-grilled trout. A dried miniature fig topped with fresh cheese left us wondering what may be next.

Our favorite was the botan-nabe. The waitress explained that they use a specially bred pig that has a wild boar for one grandparent. The result is a rich meat that is tenderer than boar and refined enough for Tamasaka’s complex sansho and red miso broth.

At night, Tamasaka’s service and culinary treats are slightly more polished for a sophisticated evening out (¥8,400 for ten courses). The first floor is opened out with its generous counter seating; the perfect vantage point to observe the simple illuminated garden and the skillful preparation of your meal.