Heading down stairs to this modestly sized izakaya we were struck by the conundrum: inside or out? Two large log tables in the semi-alfresco atrium allow patrons to spill out from thewafu (Japanese-style) interior. On this occasion we opted for the wood-paneled main seating area where the efficient staff were quick to furnish us with a round of nama beer andumeshu rock. 

It was hard to visualize what exactly the tororo wafu salad (JY550) would turn out to be, but being adventurous souls we plumped for it anyway. Fortunately, the salad was crisp leaves smothered in the sticky, grated mountain potato, with a Japanese soy dressing and a heap of dancing bonito flakes on top. Knowing that Uoshin specializes in things piscine - after all their name means "true fish" - we went on to sample the smoked salmon harasuyaki (JY680). The grilled fillets were deliciously simple with a good smoky taste set off with a squeeze of lemon. Had it not been for the arrival of the mixed sashimi plate (JY750 for a serving for one), we might have been tempted to get another helping. 

After the surf we moved to the turf and opted for that izakaya staple karaage (JY980). The nanban (barbarian?!) style take on the classic was a little rustic - the deep-fried wings were a touch bony, although some of the other joints were more meaty. The gyuhire ishiyaki (JY980) proved to be more succulent - the pieces of steak cooked on hot stone came sizzling and rare, but be warned that if you're not that carnivorous it may be a touch too bloody. 

Despite the fact that Uoshin is part of a small chain-with branches in Jingumae, Shibuya, Shimokitazawa and Kichijoji - the food retains a home-cooked feel and individuality lacking from larger rivals. Having previously added the Kichijoji branch to our repertoire of dining spots, we thought we knew what to expect but were pleasantly surprised to find that each of the restaurants has its own take on the overall theme. Next time we're stuck for a location for an impromptu evening of revelry, we'll be sure to head to the nearest Uoshin for some superior fish dishes and a spot of liquid refreshment.