With only a handful of small tables and one section allowing for larger parties, Zum Einhorn makes for an intimate, European-style dining experience. Owner Noda-san makes regular rounds in his chef's whites, recommending wines and new dishes to try, all the while managing to hide the fact that he spends the entire night jetting between this restaurant and another in Akasaka, Kreisel.

The day we visited, a shipment of white asparagus had just arrived from Europe—the restaurant receives around three shipments per week through the middle of June—and this night the huge stalks were served boiled and drizzled with a buttery Hollandaise sauce (¥1,850). Fresh and light, the asparagus dispelled all thoughts that German food is only meat and potatoes. Likewise, the sauce perfectly complemented the asparagus, adding a touch of flavor without overpowering it. 

We continued our culinary adventure with a smorgasbord of dishes served family-style as we went on a virtual tour of German wine country. Three kinds of handmade sausage, served with a side of cold potato salad (¥2,000), were juicy and flavorful with a hint of garlic and went down easily with a sweet Riesling. Likewise, the spatzle (¥2,200), described by our friend as German ravioli, was filled with juicy ground beef in casings that were a cross between pasta and pastry. We finished with grilled white fish in a light green sauce, and a heaping plate of paper-thin wienerschnitzel with a side of sautéed potatoes (¥2,500). 

The hardest part about dining at Zum Einhorn was deciding when to stop. Even after we had sworn off ever eating again, out came the apple strudel, aperitifs and coffees. But even though we knew we'd overdone it, we just couldn't help ourselves. Besides, having infiltrated the German dining scene, we wanted to make sure we'd be invited back for more.