Renowned restaurant designer Takashi Sugimoto is known for his preference for open kitchens—so much so that he put nine of them in Mezza9 in Singapore—and we were banking on there being one at this branch of Shunju. On entering the subtly lit pine interior, we weren’t disappointed, and we were additionally impressed by the marriage of Scandinavian and Japanese minimalism and the comfort of the high-backed chairs. Beyond the delights of the interior, we knew when the menu arrived that this experience was going to be haute in every sense (literally, as the restaurant is on the 27th floor), and expected an appetizing and innovative take on modern Japanese cuisine.

The stunning view over the city proved a little distracting, but after negotiating some tricky kanji, we managed to order and were promptly brought a tasty and intriguing otoshi (¥500) of potato shoots wrapped in yuba, burdock salad and sazae (turban shell). The first dish to arrive was the succulent grilled wild boar (¥1,200), cooked tender and perfectly seasoned. The kunsei shinyasai (seasonal vegetables) smoked over cherry chips (¥1,300) that followed were so good that they drew our attention away from the view. The chilled burdock, carrot, lotus root and leek each played differently with the smoky flavor producing a unique range of tastes. Although the menu said anchovy sauce, we found the mayonnaise that actually accompanied them a good complement. In many ways the dish is typical of the restaurant’s concept, which is, as its name suggests—shunju means spring and autumn—giving the best seasonal produce and traditional ingredients a modern twist.

Next to arrive was the foie gras with miso sauce—tender with a delicate saikyo miso glaze (¥1500). Our next dish, kanburi saikyoyaki (¥1,000), also featured miso, and the firm yellowtail with the slightly sweet bean paste produced a delightful combination of tastes. Seeing as we forgot to order rice (which is cooked fresh to order, so allow 30 minutes) to round things out, we opted for some sashimi—thick slices of katsuo tataki (¥1,000) with thick, freshly grated wasabi and ginger—and the daily chijimi (¥1,000). The pancake filled with shrimp and other goodies with its tangy Korean sauce was a good precursor to dessert.

Spoiled for choice—thank Buddha there was more than the usual purin and tapioca—we opted for the dessert plate (¥1,000). Although we’re not big fans of pureed azuki beans, the green tea mousse topped with cream and anko turned out to be delicious, and the beans not too cloying. The black sesame cheesecake, vanilla ice cream and palate-cleansing raspberry sorbet were all equally satisfying.